BassesByLeo
Est. 2009

This is how I alleviated the miserable barrel jack. The intermittent problem is now gone for ever.

The first photo shows the completed project, with a new jack plate. The second photo shows the 7/8 hole needed to fit the open jack and the final photo shows the 7/8 step bit used to enlarge the 3/8 hole to 7/8 …… The project took all of 15 minutes and I did not encounter any problems.

Jimi

This is incredible good stuff.

Couple questions:

When you enlarged the hole with the stepped bit, how far in did you drill? Is the blue I see on the bit a depth marker?

What, if anything, did you use to protect the finish around the are where you enlarged the hole?

Ken...

Ken

Good question. I really debated with myself to do this mod, especially on my Custom Creation and rare made for NAMM Spalted ASAT.

The step bit is manufactured by Irwin United. It is their #4 bit. The maximum size on this one is 7/8, so it was perfect for our needs. It was in the $40 range. The blue area is just where the info about the bit is printed.

I measured the diameter from other basses (MM & Fender) to get the size. Being a step bit, I was able to enlarge the 3/8 existing hole in very small increments to the required 7/8. Removing small amounts of wood with a high tech bit kept the finish from being damaged. The 3/8 hole from the barrel jack acted as my pilot hole. I had to be careful about doing any damage to the wiring or preamp components in the cavity by visually watching as I drilled. I mounted the new switchcraft jack (three prong type) to a jack plate and drilled just deep enough to accommodate the new jack. After the new jack fit into the body, I marked where the mounting screws would be and drilled pilot holes, again not to do any damage to the finish.

I suppose I'll "fix" my other G&L's. Well, maybe not the Commemorative or the ASAT Signature. I believe the Signature to be the first ASAT Signature.

Thanks for "BassesbyLeo" We finally now have our own site to call home.

Jimi

BluesBassPlayer wrote:The step bit is manufactured by Irwin United.....

Excellent detailed explanation. You got yourself a sticky with this one!

Just one little thing for those just tuning in or lightly skimming over this. This procedure involves making a non-reversible modification to the instrument. For those who are a bit squeamish about such things, you can just replace that failed jack.

Thanks for "BassesbyLeo" We finally now have our own site to call home.

My pleasure, Jimi. Thanks for making the trek here!

Ken...

A very useful thread. Thank you!

Here's another problem with barrel jacks. The tip from a Neutrik silent jack came off and lodged it self into the barrel jack of another G&L. It will not simply fall out. Another replacement is necessary.

Just a note that I ordered the Irwin 10234CB bit (#4) through Amazon and it was 21.99 plus shipping for a total of $26.59. Cheapest price I could find for it.

Anyone have a recomendation for a jack and plate combo along with an online source?

One other note for folks who might be doing this mod, putting some masking tape over the hole and drilling through the tape can help to minimize chipping of the finish around the drilled hole.

mg

mgward3 wrote:Anyone have a recomendation for a jack and plate combo along with an online source?

I don't know that I'd worry about a combo, per-se. If the jack plate looks like it'll fit and looks good to you, then go for it. Any open frame jack should fit the plate's hole. Just be sure to get the correct one; mono or stereo for passive or active, respectively. Where you buy is a matter of availability. Stew-Mac, Warmoth, Luthier's Mercantile. GC might even have what you need in-store.

Ken...

I used a stereo input jack (switchcraft) and a football plate. http://guitarpartsresource.com/jackplates_football.htm

The above link was and is a good place for lots of necessary parts and upgrades.

Jimi

Ken Baker wrote:

mgward3 wrote:Anyone have a recomendation for a jack and plate combo along with an online source?

I don't know that I'd worry about a combo, per-se. If the jack plate looks like it'll fit and looks good to you, then go for it. Any open frame jack should fit the plate's hole. Just be sure to get the correct one; mono or stereo for passive or active, respectively. Where you but is a matter of availability. Stew-Mac, Warmoth, Luthier's Mercantile. GC might even have what you need in-store.

Ken...

Thanks, Ken. I just ordered the black football plate and switchcraft jack from Stew-Mac. My bass has Three Tone Sunburst finish and black strap pins so I figure the black football would be best. My L-2500 is fairly new so I don't expect to have any problems with the jack for awhile. Just thought I would be ready when the time comes. I may just go ahead and do it when I get some time. Actually, now that I think about it, I will probably do it at my first string change when I plan on doing the thru-body bridge mod as well.
mg