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Saddle-Lock Bridge Screw (and bushing) *solution?*

PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 7:23 pm
by Karl Kaminski
HI Guys,
Trying to "build a better mouse trap" for that clumsy and often lost set screw and spacer, I thought I'd share some findings.

The screw is a stainless steel M4 Set Screw (also called a Grub Screw, depending on your locale) with the addition of a loose nylon spacer to prevent marring the G saddle once set. The Set Screw is basically the same as the newer (post '08?) metric Saddle Height Adjustment Screw, so in a pinch you could use one of them (if you had extra :) ) or anystainless steel M4 size Set Screw—but you'll mare the edge of the G saddle)

My used USA model didn't come with one so in my quest to replace it I found a better solution:

Instead of a Set Screw and spacer, I used a M4x10mm Nylon Tipped Dog Point (aka Extended point, Pilot point) Set Screw. This eliminates the hassle of loosing/setting that spacer, and the longer 10mm length easier to handle.

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Side note, I found it "Inconseeev-able", almost impossible to get these screws (even in a small quantity) here in NYC. Oddly though, I could find SAE nylon dog points from US suppliers, the only way for me to get a small quantity of Metric was an order from Europe or China. I bet those in "metric countries" will have better luck sourcing locally.

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Hope it helps, Play on!

Re: Saddle-Lock Bridge Screw (and bushing) *solution?*

PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 11:25 am
by Ezn73
Do you feel that the Saddle Lock Bridge kind of skews the strings towards the low E or B string? I feel like there should maybe be a spacer on the side opposite the set screw to keep the strings centered. What do you think?

Re: Saddle-Lock Bridge Screw (and bushing) *solution?*

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 7:52 pm
by Karl Kaminski
Hi
I thought that too at first. But after a quick inspection with (and without) the strings on the saddles, they do sit relaxed in line with the left side (Bstr) of my bridge and the strings do centerup over the pups and neck.

I guess you could always add a nylon shim to the opposite side if yours isn’t centered. I doubt it’s needed, but a pic would definitely clarify any doubts.

Re: Saddle-Lock Bridge Screw (and bushing) *solution?*

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 2:19 pm
by Ezn73
I think my cellphone may be fisheyeing it a little bit, but this is a pretty good representation of the skew I referred to.

Re: Saddle-Lock Bridge Screw (and bushing) *solution?*

PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:03 pm
by Karl Kaminski
hmmm, thats more askew than mine, without the lock screw do they ride centered in the bridge at pitch?
Check that your neck is seated in the heal properly.

If neck joint is correct, maybe don't bother with the lock screw, or use a nylon shim on the opposite side like you mentioned. Grab a nylon washer of proper thickness from Home Depot-type store, cut in half (into a semi circle).

UPDATE:
My bridge does have 1.37mm of possible lateral play (B<—>G), its current mounted with its adjustment all the way to the G str side. So, depending of your skill level you might be able to shift your bridge to center it, but you'll need to properly plug and redrill the two mounting screws holes. Certainly not hard but a precise adjustment to assure proper alignment of the string line (and neck joint)


heres mine (unlocked and locked)
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